Friday, May 14, 2010

May 11, Tuesday Baltra and home

Watching the sun set over Baltra was heavenly. The stars were out in full force and I noticed the Southern Cross and Orion's belt as well as the north star. I sat outside on the bow for hours just stargazing.









Having anchored at Baltra, we took an early morning panga ride through the mangroves to see the animals as the sun rose.


















Large sea turtles slip by soundlessly as noddy terns soar overhead only to end up sitting on a pelican's head and frigate birds watch for their chance to steal something, anything.









Silent golden eagle rays glide effortlessly through the still clear water. Pelicans and Blue Footed boobies dive straight down to scoop up their prey.









It is a silent, quiet morning and though I would like to sit here all day, we finally head for the last look at the boat, and home.

































May 10 Monday, Sombrero Chino (Chinese Hat) and Dragon Hill

When the volcano spewed out it's fire, spitting gas and lava, it raced to the sea. Sea lions suckling their young, resting at the edge of the lava rocks. The black and brown landscape supports small bushes, flowers and 7 species of crab along with ink black marine iguanas. Sea lions, as always, frolic in the crashing surf.












Lava tunnels are everywhere. I can just imagine the hot lava flowing down the mountain only to be supercooled to the core as the molten rock reaches the sea.









The landscape supports catcus....











And rock compressed to thousands of degrees, forming impressions found only at the base of volcanoes.









The surrounding vistas from this boulder strewn land are wide reaching.










In the afternoon we snorkeled with sharks, multi-colored coral and the explosion of colorful fish. Then we went to Dragon Hill, a virtual plethera of taller trees, shrubs and greenery that we haven't seen the entire trip. This area gets more rain, so everything grows in this hot, windy and rainy climate. It is named Dragon Hill as the first visitors saw many ugly dragons, ie land iguanas. Birds abound, esp. a mocking bird, who is a very curious fellow.









The crown and subsequent colors on this land iguana could be very frightening.









This is one of the small shrubs that grows as there is a great deal more rain here.








As we climbed to the sea for our panga ride back to the boat, this molting Galapagos penguin came into view.










Many marine iguanas are found here and they like the boulders and sand near the water's edge.










I love this species of crab. Called Sally Lightfoot crab, they are so colorful and large. This one sits here waiting for the insects and other food near the rocks.








Tonight we had a farewell dinner with the crew and our ever present guide, Daniel. This has been a special trip and I find it hard to say good-bye.

May 9th, Mother's Day North Seymour Island and Pinnacle Rock

North Seymour Island is a flat table top island growing out of the Pacific Ocean. Tuff and basalt with a vein of limestone make the island seem like a lunar landscape. Great Frigate birds nest in the low branches. The gular, or pouch, fills as the males look for mates. More than one male sits in the trees flapping their pouches calling, "Look at me, I have the biggest pouch." Sounds like some of the males I know...lol. It was a flat circular hike.









Mother birds feed their young opening their beaks so the babies can stick their whole beak and head down the gullet to reach the predigested food. Ouch!








Fur seals, which are smaller than their cousins, the sea lions, sunned themselves on the rocks as we rode the panga nearby.









Galapagos penguins surfed as I watched, amazed that I could be this close!











The boardwalk and steps leading to the top of Pinnacle Rock were steep and better than the stairmaster! The lunar landscape continued to astonish my senses.










After the last eruption, lava tunnels, very fragile now, dot the landscape. The lava rushed from the top of the crater, now extinct, and cooled into tunnels as they reached the sea.













The view from the top of the boardwalk was incredible!














At last, the motley crew, all together after our amazing hike to the top.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Saturday May 8th Santa Fe and South Plaza

The morning was clear and I had a great view of Bahia Barrington on Santa Fe island. It was a wet landing, but the island was very hot and arid.









Our guide, Daniel, led us up the side of the hill to San Paulo trees which smelled like incense.








There were catcus finches in the prickly pear cacti feeding their babies.










This was the island for the land iguanas. They were large and fierce looking. This one is for you Maria!









The red-billed tropic bird with its beautiful long white, elegant tail soared above the cliffs on South Plaza Island.














While the swallow tailed gulls tended to their babies.










This is bachelor rock where the males who had lost their harems came to lick their wounds.









And as we left there was always one more baby sea lion who wanted to be loved!


Friday May 7th San Cristobal



Smooth night sailing and arrived at Punta Pitt (Brad'
s brother lol). Took the panga around the rocks to see sea lions cavorting in the water. The red footed boobies nested in the cliffs along with the magnificent frigate birds soaring overhead.












The tuff, or striated rock is formed from the compression of volcanic rock. This part is called Kicker Rock.









Low red and green plants dot the landscape.



Gorgeous views of the harbor and beaches.

Snorkeling with sea lions again, marine igua
nas, sea stars, sponges and coral. The startling colors are so vivid.

After lunch, the captain took us to Islas Lobos, where the frigate birds inflate their red sacs to attract a mate.






Walked on the volcanic boulders and the back of the island served as a nesting site for birds.

Thursday May 6th, 2010 Espanola Island

Espanola is a flat island, the most eastern in the archipelago and only a caldera of rock. We dry landed and there were the resident sea lions, Sally Lightfoot crabs and marine iguanas.















Here
we hiked all over the island ending near the cliffs where we saw Blue Footed Boobies, Nasca boobies and waved albatross. They were all nesting and the babies were full of down and fluff.












One pair of albatross actually laid
an egg as I watched! At the top of the cliff, the albatross waddle to the edge and soar away on a 8 foot wing span. it was incredible to see this bird winging away. This is for you Hayley!!








The blowhole was a geological feature that had everyone oohing and aaahing as the glacial blue water rushed through the holes in the volcanic rock.





Later we went snorkeling and a sea lion came over to swim with me. He pushed me in the tummy and then glided around. It was incredible. Sea Lions lie around like forgotten litter nursing, playing and rolling around.

We put the sails up and set sail for San Cristobal. Seas were rough, but fabulous.

Wednesday, May 5th Floreana

The island of Floreana, a 5 hour motor sail from Santa Cruz and Baltra was breathtaking at dawn. The Highlands at Puerta Valiesco Ibarra was accessed by an open bus. The San Paulo and Scalcia trees with plum, orange, banana and guyabana dotting the landscape. Each island has its own unique flora and fauna.









Darwin's Tree finches flit from branch to branch singing their songs as yellow warblers sing for their supper.










Sea Lions are king here and they occupy nearly every available spot that is available.










There are about 40 gentle giants on Floreana and it is amazing how close you can get to them!









We hiked the highlands which had beautiful views of the bay.










We went snorkeling from the panga at Comorant Point. The water was so clear you could see all the way to the bottom. I didn't have a wet suit, but the temp. was perfect. We saw brightly colored fish, chocolate chip starfish and an octopus. After returning to the ship, we changed and went for another shore excursion before dinner. We saw blue footed bobbies, pelicans, flamingos and sea turtle nests.














We assisted one baby sea turtle make it to the ocean, only to be scooped up by a frigate bird and eaten! That's life.




Captain's dinner tonight and we met the crew.